How to tune
your bow.
The bow did not suddenly forget how to shoot. Strings stretch. Peeps walk. Rests move. Nine checks, in order, before you start changing everything at once.
Tune it. Don't guess at it.
Taking a bow to a shop is fine. Knowing what the shop is supposed to do is better. Work the list top to bottom. If a step is over your head, stop and call the shop in Anoka — 888-BWSTRNG — instead of twisting cable until the cams look "about right."
Nine checks.
Look first.
Wear hides inside the bundle. Fuzzy serving, flat spots, broken strands, a peep that will not stay — that is a string problem, not a form problem. Replace the string. Do not keep shooting one that is coming apart. A VTX set exists for a reason.
Do not "just add twists."
A string that has given up tension rotates cams and wrecks timing. A couple of twists can hold you over. It is not a repair. If the string is walking, change it. Press work belongs in a press, with an arrow on the string if you draw it afterward.
Fit the shooter, not the spec sheet.
Wrong draw length makes every other tune look broken. Wingspan math is a starting point, not gospel. If the shot feels long or you are collapsing, get on a draw board or in a shop before you chase the rest around the riser.
Level. Then clear the vanes.
Set the rest so the shaft runs through the Berger hole, center to high. Crimp the nocking point. Sight down the arrow — you should see daylight between fletching and rest. If you don't, clock the nock before you start paper-tuning ghosts.
Start where the bow wants it.
Read the bow's spec. Laser or square to get close. Fine tune comes later from paper and walk-back, not from sliding the rest an inch because the first group was ugly.
Anchor first. Then look.
Too low and you crane your neck all season. Draw, settle the anchor, open your eyes. The peep should already be there. That is the whole hack. VTX is built so the peep stops moving after a few shots. If it keeps walking, the string is the problem.
Stiff enough for the setup.
Lower spine number = stiffer arrow. Use the arrow maker's chart for your draw weight and length. A rest cannot save a shaft that is the wrong spine.
Steering and balance.
Vanes that clear the rest beat vanes that look pretty. Front-of-center in the 7–11% range is the usual hunting window. If FOC math makes your eyes glaze, the shop will run it.
Same line. Different yards.
Shoot a vertical line on the target at 20, then step back. Impacts should stack on that line. Groups drifting left or right mean a small rest move, not a new bow. Do this after the rest, peep, and spine are already close.
Bring it to the floor.
If the list is done and the bow still lies, stop spinning bolts. Factory Pro Shop, 809 W Highway 10, Anoka. Strings, rests, and a 20-yard range in the same building.